The Wolves are at the Door!

Well, we didn't make it to Iqaluit today. The winds howled during the morning (not enough to close our office!) which grounded all the planes in the Kivalliq region. The good news is that the winds have subsided and we hope to get out tomorrow. The government has chartered a plane to take us from Rankin Inlet to Iqaluit tomorrow, so we just need to get to Rankin. Again, we'll keep our fingers crossed that we can get out tomorrow!

While the storm makes for great viewing (from indoors, of course), it also has an affect on the wildlife. Whenever the weather turns really cold and especially during blizzards, it is very common for wolves to come towards our town looking for food. Some will actually make their way into town, causing the schools to put an alert out so that children don't play on the playground or walk home alone.

When they are hungry, the wolves will seek out dogs or other small animals. A few nights ago, I could hear the dog sled teams that live across the street from me barking ferociously. My colleagues tell me that it was probably wolves, as that property backs onto a hill at the edge of town, and wolves are frequently sighted there. Thankfully, I didn't hear any sounds that would make me think the wolves were successful in their hunt for "domesticated" food.

The wolves in this area tend to be grey wolves but the region also has the white or arctic wolf. I've included a picture of an arctic wolf that someone else took. And even though you might think that the wolf would be the scariest predator that the locals have to be on the watch for, that wouldn't be true. There is one more wild animal that will make its way into town that creates even more fear. Do you know what it is? It starts with a "w". I'll tell you what it is in my next blog!

It's a Blizzard!!

Wow! What a blizzard! We heard on Thursday night that a blizzard was coming our way. Friday morning I was eagerly looking forward to my first official blizzard and a day off of work! However, the winds blew and the snow whistled around, but it didn't meet the official criteria for closing government offices: Visibility less than 200 metres, constant wind speeds exceeding 60km/h and (if you can believe it) a wind chill index of -50C or greater! Now that in itself will tell you about how hardy the people of the north are!

But, by the time we left work on Friday afternoon, the conditions were worsening. And, as luck (or not) would have it, my first blizzard struck on the weekend! As I am sitting here typing this, the winds are howling outside my building. I can't see the buildings across the street because of the blowing snow. There is no way that I could walk outside... I'd look like a little black tumbleweed, blowing down the street in my arctic parka and gear! No way will I venture outside to see if that would be true!

Since coming to Baker, I've been told by the locals and staff who have moved here from the south, not to take the weather lightly. One story I was told was of a young mother from Baker who ventured out in a storm last year. She was suffering post-partum depression and wanted to go to the cemetary to talk with her grandmother who had passed on, but who she felt provided guidance and support to her. The young mother got disoriented on the way to the cemetary which is very common in the pure white-out conditions of a blizzard. A local search team comprised of RCMP, Rangers and volunteers searched for her. It wasn't until 3 days later that they found her body, in the fetal position, about a kilometre from the cemetary. Such a sad story, but one that definitely speaks to the immense power and fury of Mother Nature.

Tomorrow morning I am supposed to be flying to Iqaluit, the capital, for a week of meetings. It is quite unlikely that we will get out (and the only way to get out of communities in Nunavut is to fly, as there are no roads linking any of the communities). The blizzard is supposed to end around mid-day tomorrow, so it will be interesting to see whether or not the airlines reschedule earlier flights if the weather lets up. I doubt any flights have come in since Friday morning, so it could be quite a backlog! Wish me luck!

I've included a picture of the blizzard from earlier in the afternoon. The winds had subsided a bit at that time but it was still difficult to see the buildings across the street. Unfortunately, it's difficult to capture the power of the winds and the bitterness of the windchill, but trust me, it's "hang on to your hat", "tie yourself down" kind of weather. Wicked!!

Where is Baker Lake?

So where is Baker Lake? Lots of people have been asking just that question! As you can see on the map, Nunvut covers a very large area! Formed in 1999, Nunavut is divided into three regions. Baker Lake is in the central region called Kivalliq. In fact, it is considered to be the geographical centre of Canada. To find it on a map, you can go directly north from Winnipeg, until you see a large river on the west side of Hudson's Bay. That's the Thelon River and Baker Lake is at its head, about 320 kilometres inland. Baker Lake is Nunavut's only inland community.

Baker Lake means "where the river widens" in Qamani’tuaq. Even though I haven't seen anything other than "white" so far, I understand that the community is surrounded by magnificent rolling tundra and is home to very large herds of caribou and muskoxen. The caribou have been known to make their way into town, but it doesn't happen too often. To the north of Baker Lake, Wager Bay boasts populations of polar bears, seals, beluga whales, wolves, caribou and other wildlife. I can't wait to see them!

Big Sale at the Northern Store

I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see this for myself... a case of pepsi, 12 cans for (are you ready for this?)... $26.99. Wow! I had to run out and get my camera so I could take a picture of this "sale". I guess the one good thing about the outrageous price is that I'll definitely be breaking my pepsi habit. I'm just way too cheap to pay that kind of price (so far, anyway, until I have a weak moment!).

-62C Now that's cold!

Wow! It happened. We hit -62 C today which was a milestone for me as I've never experienced any weather in the -60s! And let me tell you, it was cold! Thankfully, the air temperature wasn't "really" cold, only -40 (see how acclimatized I've become already!) but the wind speed made the air unbelievably cold. When I stepped outside, I knew that it was significantly colder than I've experienced so far. Instantly, my blue jeans felt heavy and cold and then my legs felt numb. Thankfully, I was only walking 50 feet or so to our vehicle. I've posted a picture of today's weather from our airport... seeing is believing!

Getting Ready to Go Outside

Brrr.... it is cold up here! Today it is -53C (that includes the windchill). The air temperature is around -46C (even the locals would say that is "chilly". I went outside to take a couple of pictures and had my mitts off for about 20 seconds. Wow, it was bone-chilling to say the least! Check out the picture of me getting ready to go outside. It took me 5 minutes to get dressed and I was outside for 30 seconds! Oh well, maybe Nanook will adjust with time!!

One of the pictures shows my apartment. It is quite nice, built within the last 10 years. This particular government housing complex consists of a row of 5 apartments that are all 2-bedroom units. The subsidized rent on them is $1300 a month (ouch!). Fortunately, that includes heat. It doesn't include water and sewar which we pay the hamlet for. Depending on my usage, it should cost about $30 per month. The trucks come 3 times a week to pump water into my house and take out the other "stuff". Because we live on the frozen tundra, everything including water and sewar has to be above ground. In some communities like Rankin Inlet, you will see above ground water and sewar lines. In Baker, our storage tanks for water and sewar are accessible from the front or side of our house, as the houses themselves are built on an elevated platform. I'll take a picture when I have a chance. The only bad side of this is when the hamlet has difficulties delivery water as is the case right now. A sign on our work bulletin board said "Conserve water, the trucks are down"! I don't know what this means, but I guess I won't shower this weekend, just in case I run out of water for my Monday morning shower! Just kidding, but you never know!

These are pictures of two dog sled teams that live across the street from me. Unfortunately, the zoom function doesn't show great detail, but in the first picture, you might be able to make out the small dog houses as well as one large dog house in the back (metal enclosure). Some of the dogs are tethered and some are loose. I guess the "problem" dogs are the tethered ones! I'm guessing the one dog in the back enclosure might be the lead dog. Can't risk something happening to alpha dog! In the other picture you might be able to make out the wooden sled and harness at the left of the picture. I can't wait to see it in action. Mush, mush!!

Arrived!

It was a frosty Jan 10 morning in Edmonton when I started my journey north. However, as I was soon to discover, "frosty" has an entirely different meaning when one includes the great Canadian arctic! With a teary goodbye to my sweetheart, I rushed through customs and on to my gate. As I glanced at the First Air jet, with its big beautiful polar bear adorning its tail, I knew my adventure had truly begun. There was no looking back now, despite what lingering doubts remained... "What, are you crazy, leaving your loved ones, the sites and sounds of Edmonton, everything that has been "home" for the past 17 years?"... Yes, maybe I was crazy, but the call for adventure was too strong to ignore. Knowing that the love of my life was supportive of my dream to experience the north, to learn about and try to improve educational opportunities for the Inuit children of Nunavut, I boarded the plane, with an open mind and a heavy, but open heart.

My journey involved three flights. The first to Yellowknife was a two hour flight. With a short delay, I would then board a jet to Rankin Inlet, the main hub of the central (Kivalliq) region of Nunavut, another two hour flight. Rankin airport is a very busy centre, with 128 flights a day coming and going! I never would have imagined it being so busy. When we arrived, there were 6 other aircraft at the terminal, either unloading or preparing to leave. It makes sense, as the only way to get in and out of communities is by air (there are no roads connecting any of the Nunavut communities). Rankin serves as the major hub and one that I will fly through many times. Rankin is also the largest community in our region, so many of my meetings will be there.

From Rankin, I was to have an 8 hour delay, waiting for the final 30 minute Calm Air flight that would take me my new home, Baker Lake. As it turned out, there was to be no final delay, as I was able to catch an earlier flight to Baker Lake. This was great news as it meant I'd be arriving in the afternoon, rather than the evening. Not only would it give me an opportunity to see the area, but a bit of time to unpack and get my bearings, before reporting to work the next morning.

The flights were all amazing. Air Canada - take note! The first two jets served full meals, including warm cookies for dessert! And, most astonishing of all, the last leg of my journey - the turbo prop on Calm Air to Baker Lake left with only one passenger (me!). Yes, I had the whole plane to myself. I can't ever remember that happening. I took a picture of my "private plane" and you can see it in this post (Calm Air). Wow, now that's service.

Once I arrived at the Baker Lake airport, I was greeted by two members of my staff who were very welcoming. They had bought some items to put in my fridge and apartment which was a very kind thing to do. A frozen pizza was the highlight, until I went to eat it the next day, only to remember that I didn't have any of my baking "stuff" yet. That would all arrive in 3-6 weeks, depending on how the air cargo availability was. When it left my home in Edmonton, the shippers told me that local blizzards had left a backlog of shipments to go to Rankin and beyond. My "stuff" would be in that backlog, somewhere! In the meantime, I would have to make do with what I brought with me on the plane and what I could beg or borrow from others. And beg or borrow I did. When it comes to eating and surviving, one can't be too proud! The first day I borrowed a pot and a kettle, hopefully enough to get me through the next few weeks while I waited for my shipment!