Big City Issues

Happy Easter! I hope the Easter Bunny found you. He certainly found me, even way up here in Nunavut and with winter still firmly holding on. I guess even the Easter Bunny is resilient!

I've been busy at work and also struggling through frustratingly slow internet service. The speed seems to be picking up lately so I'll take advantage of that and update you on my latest adventures.

As you'll recall, I was in Iqaluit recently for meetings. It was the second time I've been to Iqaluit but the first time that I had some time to explore the city. Iqaluit is the largest community in Nunavut with a population of around 7000. It is significantly larger than any other community in Nunavut. The next 3 largest communities in Nunavut do not have the combined population of Iqaluit so it is considered the "big city" of the territory.

While I enjoyed my visit to Iqaluit, spending time in the city encouraged me to dig a bit deeper to understand its history and also its challenges. My impressions of the city was that it has the feel of a government town, with many federal and territorial departments and buildings standing admist its hotels and restaurants. Like all Nunavut towns, the choice of restaurants was somewhat limited and very pricey. However, I did have a great "Polish buffet" in one of the restaurants. I think I ate so much, they should have charged me double! In fact, I know that I was enjoying "pigging out" because one of the buffet waiters brought me a dessert and said "You haven't tried this one yet!". I thought that was so funny. I guess the big smile on my face must have showed how much I was enjoying this unique sampling of food!

With this blog, I've included some pictures from inside the Nunavut legislature. It is a beautiful building with many local artifacts gracing its interior. You will see in one of the pictures an antler carving that was done by a high school student. It is in the lobby of the legislature. Its intricate detail is amazing and representative of the many wonderful artisans in Nunavut.

Not to put a damper on this blog or my trip to Iqaluit, but I would be remiss if I didn't talk about some of the issues it faces, especially given that it's the only large city in Nunavut and suffers from many "big city" issues. Some of those issues are overcrowding and crime.

Since it became the capital of Nunavut in 1999, Iqaluit's population has doubled. In fact, the rapid growth of population across Nunavut is a problem, not only in the capital city but across its 28 communities. Nunavut currently has Canada's highest birth rate, with single young females significantly adding to this number. The high birth rate has added to immense overcrowding issues, with multiple families often sharing a single dwelling that is run down and sometimes barely inhabitable.

I have heard many stories of families where the chidren sleep on the floor of the living room because the bedrooms and couches are already overcrowded with adults from multiple families living in the house. The Nunavut Housing Authority recently overspent its annual budget by 100 percent (100 Million over budget). The saddest part of that story is that many believe that the money was not spent improving housing but squandered in questionable deals. Whether that is true or not, overcrowding issues are immense and not likely to go away soon. Compounding the issue is that Nunavut doesn't have natural resources (trees, for example) or industry capable of producing housing materials, so it has to import all materials from the south by barge or Hercules type aircraft, all extremely expensive.

Another issue that is alarming locals and southerners alike, is violence. The rate of violent crime per capita in Nunavut is 7 times what it is in the rest of Canada. The homicide rate is around 1,000 per cent of the Canadian average. If it were an independent country, Nunavut's crime statistics would rival that of South Africa or Mexico. While I was in Iqaluit, I did not go out at night, so I don't know if visitors to the city would feel threatened or intimidated by the reported violence and alcohol abuse.

When you discuss crime stats with people, they are quick to point out that the violence is not directed at "southerners". It is directed often at family members or locals and is often fueled by alcohol abuse. I have read that the Iqaluit RCMP detachment is one of the country's largest, and also busiest. The article also stated that RCMP officers in Iqaluit draw their guns more often in a week, than some southern mounties do in a career. Iqaluit's main jail, built to house 50 inmates, is reported to often have double that amount. Another overcrowding issue that is not going to go away anytime soon.

Perhaps one of the most troubling statistics and one that has reached the floor of the territorial legislature, is the issue of suicide. Often not talked about, the statistics are alarming: Inuit males aged 15 to 24 have a suicide rate 40 times that of their peers in the rest of Canada. During the 3 months I have been here, I have heard of 3 suicides. Given that I know few people and the reluctance to talk about suicide in communities, that statistic supports the belief that the problem is widespread and pervasive in Nunavut. The good news is that the gov't strongly supports making the issue more public and providing more support for those whose lives have been touched by the devasting affects of suicide.

In two weeks, I'll be back in Iqaluit for more meetings. During that time, I hope to talk with more locals about their city. I am hopeful to visit some of the galleries where many artisans from across Nunavut take their carvings and other crafts to be displayed and sold. That is the side of Iqaluit I'll be looking for, one that is hopeful and resilient, and demonstrates the unique culture of this territory. And, if I'm lucky, maybe I'll also be lucky enough to experience another "Polish feast"! Until next time!

The Traveller Curse Continues!

Hello again! Well, I have to admit that I mistakenly believed that, once the blizzard season was over, travel within Nunavut would be relatively straight forward -- you know, you book a flight, the plane arrives on time, you leave on time, etc., etc. Well, I can tell you with absolute certainty, fog in Nunavut can be just as big a headache as snow.

Last Monday I travelled to Iqaluit for meetings. The trip over was straightforward, but the leg home was not. When I arrived at the Iqaluit airport on Friday afternoon, the departures board indicated that my flight might not be able to land in Rankin, which was my transfer point. I thought, oh, isn't that interesting. I went to the First Air counter to ask them what happens if we can't land in Rankin. They said, "We'll continue on to Yellowknife and you'll stay the weekend there." Just like that, matter of factly!

In my head, I was thinking that wasn't so bad. Maybe I could hop a flight from Yellowknife to Edmonton and spend the weekend at home. I was all psyched up for the possibility. This was starting to sound like a great plan. But, it wasn't to be. The flight was able to land in Rankin. As I consoled myself that there would be no quick trip home, I prepared to spend the next 5 hours waiting for my flight to Baker.

After watching two movies (a double-bill!) on my computer, I eagerly awaited the call for my flight. I noticed people edging their way towards the windows as the magic hour approached. Hmm, I thought, what's up. I joined them to see what they were looking at. And, to my surprise, a large fog bank was making its way towards the airport. It was like I was looking at a ghost, eerily weaving its way up, then down, then closer to us. The people at the windows started saying "Oh, we're not going to get out tonight." And sure enough, they were right. Within minutes we were engulfed. We could hear an airplane above the airport, most likely our aircraft circling and contemplating a landing. As the sound of the airplane dulled in the distance, it became apparent that I would not make it home Friday night.

Dejectly, I walked up to the counter to ask what happens now. The response, "Come back in 24 hours. We'll try to get you on the Saturday evening flight." Well, add that to my growing list of travelling woes. People back at the office told me that it wouldn't be long before I got the dreaded Traveller Curse. They said it always happens on a Friday, when you've been away for the week and can't wait to get home to your own bed. Sure enough, they were right. I guess I can now proudly add the Traveller's Curse to my resume. I'm 3/3 for the curse, and all in 10 short weeks!

I was able to get a room at a local Bed and Breakfast in Rankin. There are two hotels and 2 B + B's in town. The hotels had some space for the stranded passengers, but I didn't know what I'd do once 11am came and would have to check out. I would still have 9 hours to kill before my flight home. I took my chances that the B + B would be a better choice. Of the two B + B's, one is owned by a man who runs a dog sled tour outfit. Now, normally, you'd think, given my love of dogs, this would be my first choice. But, when I checked it out, I realized that about 60 dogs, in a open air enclosure were directly across from the owner's B + B. A great location for the owner, but maybe not for the guests of the B + B. I understand the dogs tend to bark day and night! I took a picture of the dog pen so you can see some of the dogs. Not much sleeping would happen there!

My other choice was a little further away but promised to be much quieter. Wrong. There was a volleyball tournament in town and a group of young ladies from one of the competing teams were in 2 of the rooms adjacent to my room. And, they had a 10 month old baby with them! Needless to say, the night was interjected with adolescent laughter and baby cries! So much for my careful planning. Oh, well. The hosts were most gracious and allowed me to use my room right up until the time I had to go to the airport. They also provided an evening meal for me that was above and beyond the call of duty! Very nice, indeed.

Thankfully, I was able to make it home on Saturday night. I headed to bed right away and vowed never to let the curse get me again. I'll figure it out, I will! I've included a picture of the sign welcoming people to Rankin Inlet. As I've mentioned before, NHLer Jordan Tootoo is a local hero and admired by young and old. I've also included a picture of a statue outside the local Wolf Cafe in Rankin. Not surprisingly, a big bad wolf is the star attraction there!

In my next blog I'll share my impressions of Iqaluit, Nunavut's capital city. Until then... Have a great one!